After World War I, the Roaring Twenties brought modernization, technologization, and color. The economy was thriving, allowing even office clerks to invest in fashion and entertainment. Movie stars became style icons and the new woman defied old values by working, smoking, cutting her hair, and dancing in clubs.
Handbags became essential fashion accessories, often made from synthetic materials due to a leather shortage. Popular styles included envelope bags, art deco mesh bags, and beaded fabric Dorothy bags. The US Navy’s zipper invention also revolutionized bag design, making them larger and safer.
The 1930s recession made money scarce and raw materials were of poor quality, but handbags still aimed for luxury. This trend persisted into the 1940s, when the first shoulder bags appeared.
“Glamour is what I sell, it’s my stock in trade.”
— Marlene Dietrich
The decline of fashion
After World War II, fashion petrified on both sides of the ocean. Compared to the provocative style of the 1920s and 30s, the overall impression could even be described as grim. Women were also involved in the war effort: they were needed in factories, hospitals and at the front. Above all else, clothing needed to be practical. The style was bold and inspired confidence. A masculine impression was emphasized with shoulder pads. Handbags were edgier and larger than before. Functionality determined this time, and thanks to longer carrying handles, the hands were free to perform other tasks.
Whiting & Davis
Known for its metal mesh bags, Whiting & Davis began operations in the United States in 1876. The company originally manufactured jewelry and cufflinks, expanding to handcrafted bags in 1892. In 1912, Charles Whiting invented a machine that could connect 400,000 metal rings to one another per day. As a result, prices came down and the bags became very popular. Between 1912–25, these silk-lined handbags were made from sterling silver and their clasps were decorated with various engravings and jewels.
In 1926, the company was the largest in the world in its field. Thanks to French designer Paul Poiret, the bags also gained popularity among socialites. Whiting & Davis bags continue to sparkle across the red carpet and silver screen. They are also very sought-after collectibles. In the 1950s, Jane Russell shone at a film premiere in the first gold-plated metal cocktail dress (weighing 10 kg). In the 70s, backless tops made of metal with matching bags enlivened the dance floors of the discos.