French fashion designer Christian Dior startled with his New Look collection in 1947. He created flower women with flowing dresses and narrow waists; they were an image of an exaggerated super femininity in their corsets. In the words of Dior, “We were emerging from the period of war, of uniforms, of women soldiers built like boxers”. Women no longer had to dress in such a way. Although there was still a shortage of milk and bread, Dior’s models danced around in their expensive clothes.
After the war, the 1950s saw the emergence of a new kind of consumer society: clothing began to be mass-produced and cars were quickly and cheaply manufactured on conveyor belts.
As men returned from the fronts, many women had to give up their wartime work and return home. Many societal tensions and political movements arose, including racial issues. In the United States, rock ’n’ roll became popular, giving birth to a youth culture with James Dean at the forefront. Fashion became an important means of expressing one’s identity, which distinguished the cool from the norms.
“My ultimate goal is to make every woman feel and make her look like a countess.”
— Christian Dior
The Kelly bag
Hermès, a French fashion house specializing in saddlebags and luggage, launched a “women’s postal bag” (sac á dépêches pour dames) in 1935. It gained prominence in 1956 due to actress Grace Kelly, who used the bag to hide her pregnancy from the paparazzi. The bag’s popularity grew even more once Hermès named it the Kelly.
The bag certainly isn’t everyone’s accessory, as it can cost up to 80,000 euros. One bag’s production requires 16-24 hours of work and a total of 2,600 handsewn stitches. It is usually made of calfskin, but is also available in crocodile, lizard or ostrich leather.
The Chanel bag
Named after French fashion designer Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, the bag is one of the most iconic fashion creations of the 20th century. Chanel is said to have been inspired by her former lover, the Duke of Westminster, who loved riding.
Chanel’s design has always been guided by the principle of the freedom of movement. However, the first bags introduced to the market in 1929 still had to be carried by hand and were therefore impractical. In 1955, Chanel launched a handbag with a shoulder strap that blew everyone’s minds: the shoulder bag was now suitable for a fine lady as well, not just a commoner.
“My job is to take away what others have added.“
— Coco Chanel
A decade of fashion
Mary Quant revolutionized the fashion world with her mini skirt and micro shorts. The swinging London of the 1960s gave rise to mod style (mod=modernist), with supermodel Twiggy at the forefront. In 1967, Americans celebrated the Summer of Love, with San Francisco becoming the hub of hippie culture and the flower power generation. London was the birthplace of boutique culture, as its pedestrian streets constantly sported new shops where the youth could afford exciting and individual fashion.
Fashion designers and artists of the time applied wildly different ideas and materials to their work and creations. For example, sculptured dresses made of aluminum pieces by Paco Rabanne, Yves Saint Laurent’s Mondrian collection, metallic and futuristic space age outfits, and many more styles were popular.
From the Jackie to the Bouvier
The Jackie bag is as much an icon as the Gucci brand itself. Originally it was launched as a unisex bag named Constance in 1950. The moment Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis was seen with the bag in tow, it immediately became a hit, and Gucci renamed the bag from Constance to Jackie. The former American first lady’s choices had a major impact on fashion. Gucci introduced its new Jackie bag in 2009. Shortly afterwards it was renamed the Bouvier after Mrs. Kennedy’s maiden name, only to be restored to its old name a few years later. Again, a fashion icon was used for promotional purposes: in a video campaign, British supermodel Kate Moss shields herself from the paparazzi with the help of the bag. Perhaps the name will change again in the future?